
Cross-country skiing originated in Fennoscandian
countries in prehistoric times. It was still widely practiced in 19th century
as a way of moving from place to place in winter. Elk, deer and other animals
were hunted by skiing. Nowadays almost everyone in countries with strong
cross-country skiing traditions — like Norway, Sweden, Finland and Estonia —
have used or regularly use skis.
By contrast, natives in North America were historically trappers and
gatherers, needing free hands and the ability to walk through deep snow in
forests, hence the common historical use of snowshoes. Skiing may have also
been sparsely practiced by Native Americans for similar lengths of time as in
Scandinavia, although the Norwegian emigrants Snowshoe Thompson and Jackrabbit Johannsen are widely credited for introducing the sport to North
America.
This form of skiing has been used by explorers by means of transport, and
all Nordic armies have ski-trained infantry for winter operations. Skis gave
important mobility to the Finnish army in Winter War that allowed the small
groups of Finns to beat large armies of Russians. Similar tactics that utilizes
skis have been used in many times by the Finns and Karelians in the past.
Pre-modern skiing troops were armed with crossbows and ski poles which had a spearhead
on the other end.
Clipped into your skis, carbo-loaded, stretched, and properly attired, you're ready to go. So just how do you go? Skis don't come with ignition keys, and they sure make you feel awkward. You look at the snow. You look at your skis. You adjust your well-adjusted poles, looking for answers they don't have. Nothing. So try striding. Mistake. The wrong things moved in the wrong directions. Now you have a close-up view of the day's snow conditions.
If you've never been on skis before, forget about skiing for a few moments. Take some time to get used to your big slippers by walking on them. If you need to take exaggerated steps to move your feet forward, so be it. Choose a flat piece of land and go for a stroll; picking your skis right off the snow as you would your feet off the ground. Then begin leaning forward and tilting left and right and start bending your knees a bit as you take each step. Don't worry about concepts such as” weight transfer" yet. Just get comfortable leaning over each ski. As you walk on the skis, concentrate on keeping their tips from crossing. Guide them straight and parallel. If you've ever been in a sack race when you couldn't move each leg separately, you'll appreciate the importance of not allowing one ski tip to step on the other. Also get used to the idea that your footwear has very little traction. Think of walking on a slippery floor with shoes. It's hard to describe just how your gait employs scoot-prevention, but if somebody tells you to watch out for the wet floor, you're just as likely to skid, but somehow less likely to fall because you're bracing for the sudden slide.
Cross-country skis are very light and narrow, and usually have parallel
edges, though some newer skis have a slight side cut. The boots attach to the
bindings at the toes only. There are three binding systems most often used:
Rottefella's NNN, Salomon's SNS profil, and SNS pilot. The ski bases are waxed
to reduce friction during forward motion, and kick wax can also be applied for
adhesion when walking uphill. Some wax less models may have patterns on the
bottom to increase the friction when the ski slides backward. There are two
major techniques, classical (traditional striding) and freestyle or skating
which was developed in the 1980s. Skating skis are shorter than classical skis
and do not need grip wax. Skating is also the technique used in biathlons.
The skis are long and thin, to distribute the weight of the skier and allow
the skier to move quickly. Typical ski dimensions are 2 meters in length, about
5 centimeters in width and one to four centimeters in thickness, depending on
the ski brand and which point of the ski is measured. Depending on the ski
design and purpose, they are fit to the skier based on height or weight. Cross
country skis are sometimes informally known as "skinny skis" because
of their thinness compared to alpine skis.
Like alpine skiing, cross-country skiers carry two poles, usually made of aluminum
or fiberglass. More expensive poles are made of graphite or carbon fiber or
some other strong but lightweight material. Poles have a spike at the end to
provide a fixed pivot when the pole penetrates through to a hard surface, and a
plastic web or disc (called the basket), to provide extra purchase in
snow and to ensure the pole doesn't sink too deeply.
The toe of the skier's footwear is attached to the ski with a binding, while
the heel remains free.
Equipment differs according to skiing technique. Skating or freestyle poles
are usually longer than those used for the classic technique. Typically,
skating poles should be long enough to reach the skier's chin or as far as the eyebrows,
depending on the skier's preference. In contrast, classic ski poles should
reach the skier's armpit.
There are three different primary groups of binding systems used in modern
cross-country skiing:
Older styled three-pin bindings (Nordic Norm), with or without cables, are
still used by backcountry and Telemarking
enthusiasts.
Further variants to NNN and SNS are "BC" (back-country)
standards, where the toe hold in the binding is wider and the bar in the boot's
toe is longer and thicker in order to give further lateral rigidity. This added
strength and rigidity is especially important with the stiffer boots and
heavier skis used in backcountry skiing.
There
are a wide variety of waxes for Nordic Skiing. The waxes can be classified into
four main categories: glide waxes, kick waxes, klisters
and wax tapes.
In recent years, wax less skis has carved a niche in the market among
casual skiers. Wax less skis have a fish scale, cross-hatched or ridged pattern
in the kick zone to provide grip. A wax less ski is inferior to a finely tuned
waxed ski, but does not require the sometimes time-consuming and sometimes
costly selection and application of kick wax or klister. Some skiers apply a
layer of glide wax to keep them sliding smoothly and protecting the surface
from dirt and ice build-up. There are specialty liquid wax products on the
market manufactured for this purpose; standard wax should never be applied to
wax less skis due to extreme difficulty in later removing it from the grooved
or notched kick zone.
Wax less skis are better suited to recreational skiers who simply want to
get out on the trail with minimal time spent on maintenance, as they generally
produce too much drag for competitive skiers.
.Styles/Techniques
There are three main styles used in cross-country skiing: classic, skating
and telemarking. Specially adapted equipment is available to suit each. Another
style growing in popularity is skijoring. In skijoring, the skier is pulled
over the snow by one or more dogs, or, alternatively, a snowmobile. Both
classic and skating techniques are used by skijorers.
The classic style is often used on prepared trails that have
pairs of parallel grooves cut into the snow. Skis
have camber and should leave the centre section of the ski clear of the snow
when the skier’s weight is evenly distributed between the pair. The centre
section of a classic ski will either have "fish scales", or ski wax
that will stick to the snow (called the "kick zone" or "grip
zone" of the ski). When full weight is transferred to a single ski the
kick zone comes into contact with the snow. Glide wax is used on the tails and
tips of the skis.
Long, narrow and light skis are usually used. When skiing away from
prepared trails, a much wider ski is sometimes used. In flat regions, such as
parts of Finland, skis exceeding 3 or 4 m in length are sometimes used.
There are four core techniques: herringbone, diagonal stride, double pole
with kick, and double pole.
On downhill slopes a tucked position (hocke, from the German word)
is assumed, in a similar manner to downhill skiing.
Diagonal Stride
This stride is so-called not because you'll be traveling sideways like a
bishop in a chess game, but because of the line created when the right arm
swings back as the left leg moves forward and the left arm swings forward as
the right leg pushes off. The diagonal stride is the most common step in
cross-country skiing. Think of the sequence as one kick-and-glide after another,
a motion that approximates walking with exaggerated yet very graceful motion.
Start to Kick: Shift your weight onto one ski again as you did when you first stepped onto the snow and began to get the feel of the skis. With your feet still parallel, bend your knees and begin pushing down—not back—with one foot on one ski. Keep your hips over the ski that is pushing off. Keep your chest and hips forward and don't be fooled by the illusion that diagonal striders are kicking backward. Keep your weight on your whole foot as you push down. As you pull the leg that has just rushed off forward so it is again even with the gliding leg, begin to shift your weight to the gliding ski in preparation to put your full weight on it as you kick off.
Start to Glide: When gliding, always bend slightly at the knees, but don't hunch the upper body. Keep your hips forward with your hands in front of you, and keep all your weight on the gliding leg. Also be sure to bend your ankles and keep your entire leg flexible. Straighten and stiffen your gliding leg only after it passes under you and gets ready to kick. Using the Poles: Think of walking at a fast pace. How do you swing your arms? As you slide forward on your right ski, your opposite arm will naturally swing forward with it. You could almost be in marching formation the way your steps follow one another. Hup-two. Hup-two.
To do this with poles, bring your arm near chest level, keeping your elbow slightly bent as you go. Swing back down with arm, propelling off the snow and allowing it to follow through behind your back in concert with the opposite leg. Make sure to keep your poles close to your sides as you plant them in the snow and push off; if you plant them too far out to the sides, you're not going to propel yourself forward as effectively.
Remember to release the pole at the end of each backswing. Extend your arm so the pole is close to vertical, but still angled backward. If you go past vertical and your weight pushes the poles so they extend far in front of you, prepare to sprawl.
Diagonal Stride in Review
(1) Kick:
Push straight down through your boot and the midsection of your ski as you
initiate the kick with your left leg. Your legs and ankles should be slightly
flexed and your torso leaning forward.
(2) Glide and Pole Push: Now your weight has shifted to your right leg, which id driven forward and down the track in the glide. Your opposite arm naturally follows suit, coming forward for the pole plant. The elbow of this forward arm should be slightly bent for maximum power in the pole push.
(3) Kick: The push is timed just before the initiation of a kick with your right leg.
(4) Glide and Pole Push: Now weight shifts to your left, or gliding leg, and the sequence begins all over again (5) and (6).
Skate
skiing involves the skier pushing one ski outward with the ski
angled, so that the inner edge of the ski is driven against the snow, much like
an ice skater. As in classic skiing, transferring weight completely from one
ski to the next is essential to learning to skate. Those who have learned to
ice skate or rollerblade may find ski skating technique easier to learn than
classic skiing.
Skate skiing can be done either with skis specifically designed for skating
or 'combi' skis for both skating and classic. Similarly, specialized skating
boots or combi boots can be used. Skate skis tend to be shorter and stiffer
than those used in classical technique, and poles longer. Neither fish scale
skis nor grip wax are used. Like gears on a bicycle, skating has different
techniques for different terrain and speeds.
Skating technique is only suitable for use on prepared trails (pistes),
firm and smooth snow or snow crust and frozen snow-covered lakes or rivers.
Skating is faster and different muscular exercise than classic skiing,
except in extremely cold conditions where classic skiing may approach skating
in speed. Adoption of the skating technique varies from country to country. In
some countries the majority of non-professional racers now skate, although top
skiers continue to learn and train in both styles.
The distinction between classic technique and free technique is made in
competition i.e. a race will be designated as classic or free. In the case of
the former only those propulsion techniques that are considered 'classic' are
allowed whereas in the latter the competitors are free to use any technique
although the majority of competitors will opt to skate. Large races will often
have both skate and classic divisions and award prizes in both categories.
Falling and Getting Up
Moving along reasonably smoothly, you glance to your left and catch a
glimpse of another skier. Trouble is, your distracted ski has caught only a
glimpse of the set tracks. You lean back to get a closer look and suddenly
you're swimming like a fish. Forget it. Once you're far past the vertical,
you're also past the point of no return. But instead of cushioning your
collapse, you try to save face. Shake a leg, you figure. Parry the air with
your poles. Something, anything, so it doesn't look like an f-a-l-l. Know what?
Bag the tributes to style points. They prolong the fall, annoy the skier, and
leave you with pretzel empathy. Swing your arms like a propeller all you want;
you're still going to fall. Predictable and unavoidable, falls seem to take
place in slow motion, yet they still rattle you enough to leave you with doubts
about your equilibrium. They are skiing's answer to sneezes. Your attention to
subtle correction produces the gradual compounding of flaw upon glitch until. .
. ohmygoshnevermirnd.... womp!
The tattering tease of womp can be as humiliating as a matricidal hiccup. But don't worry about a fall. It's the world's favorite stopping technique. The important surfaces -- yours and the snow's -- well padded. What's more, there are ways to fall safely.
When you feel a fall coming on, lower yourself so you're closer to the ground. Bring your hands closer to your body so you don't jam a finger against your ski or strain a shoulder. If when you finally come to a full stop you have legs wrapped around arms wrapped around skis stuck to poles, try rolling onto your back and shaking things out in the air. Then roll over onto your hands and knees (1), making sure your skis is across the slope (assuming you didn't fall at the bottom of the hill) and flat on the snow with your knees on top of the skis (2). Slide one ski forward and kick yourself up (3). Dusting is optional (4). Quitting is forbidden.
Glossary
Basket- A plastic web or disc on the poles to ensure the pole doesn’t sink in the snow.
Binding- Where the toes of the shoes are attached to the skis.
Classic style- Style of parallel skiing.
Diagonal- An
exaggerated running action with parallel skis and a glide on each stride.
Double pole- Both poles are planted simultaneously to give a powerful thrust.
Fish scale- Ridged
pattern on the bottom of the skis to provide grip.
Glide wax- helps to slide smoothly and protects from dirt and ice build-up
Herringbone- Technique
used for climbing steep hills. A walking or running action with splayed skis
and without any glide.
Hocke- A tucked position of the
skier used going down hill.
Kick zone- Center
section of the skis where the skiers weight is distributed.
Skijoring- When the
skier is pulled over the snow by one or more dogs or a snowmobile.
·
http://gorp.away.com/gorp/activity/skiing/ski_cros.htm
·
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cross-country_skiing